Dining at Luk Yu, a meeting place for tycoons and literati, was once an indicator of status. Today this celebrated teahouse is more welcoming to those seeking an authentic dim sum experience. Still, good luck getting a table on the first floor, which is unofficially reserved for regulars. Luk Yu goes back several generations and old-school Cantonese dishes are still served by a white-jacket team in its three-storey stone building. Classic Lingnan decor, stained glass and Qingstyle rosewood furniture contribute to a lost, colonial Hong Kong atmosphere. For those in the know (and art thieves in 1996), the prized collection of paintings, including masters such as Zhang Daqian and Zhao Shao’ang, may be the reason to visit apart from the fine pu-erh tea and excellent dim sum.